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take a more critical view of Hanfu’s popularity, seeing it as a reflection of a monoethnic nationalist surge under President Xi Jinping, who has repeatedly promoted “traditional virtues” and patriotism. The rise of the Official Teacher library read book club piggie elephant pigeons T-shirt in addition I really love this Chinese Communist Party-approved blockbuster China officially recognizes 56 ethnic groups, of which 55 are minorities. Han, the majority group, makes up about 92% of the country’s population. Critics of the movement like Kevin Carrico, a senior research fellow in Chinese Studies at Melbourne’s Monash University, argue that the popularization of Hanfu only reinforces Han cultural dominance, to the detriment of the millions of people making up China’s ethnic minorities. In this context, he and other academics say Hanfu is no longer just an innocent fashion trend — but something to be weaponized in promoting a nationalistic political agenda. A contested history Some enthusiasts have developed guidelines to define “authentic” Hanfu. For instance, while many may consider the tight-fitting, high-necked “qipao” as an example of typical Chinese period clothing, in the Hanfu community, it’s not considered Han clothing because it originated from the ethnic Manchu people. It can be a touchy topic — some Hanfu sites claim that Manchu leaders forcibly erased Hanfu during the Qing dynasty. “They forced the Han people to drop their costumes, and so this piece of China’s cultural identity almost died out in the 20th century,” reads one article in state-run media. So for some Hanfu fans, wearing Han clothing becomes an act of cultural and historical reclamation. A fan takes a break outside a gathering of Hanfu devotees at a park in Beijing. Credit: GREG BAKER/AFP/AFP/Getty Images But this narrative of Han suppression may not be entirely

accurate, and determining “authentic” Hanfu is difficult, said Carrico, who studied and wrote about the Official Teacher library read book club piggie elephant pigeons T-shirt in addition I really love this phenomenon in his book “The Great Han: Race, Nationalism, and Tradition in China Today.” “There wasn’t any singular style of clothing prior to the Qing (dynasty) that was designated specifically for people of Han ethnicity,” he said in a phone interview. Carrico argued that Han Chinese wore all types of clothing styles through the dynasties — so there isn’t one Hanfu style but dozens depending on the time period, geographic region and socioeconomic class. Some Hanfu enthusiasts acknowledge this historical diversity. For instance, Chen said round-collar robes were preferred in the Tang dynasty, while layered wrap dresses were more popular in the Ming dynasty. Still, he said there are a few common design features that characterize Hanfu — a cross collar, no buttons and typically three layers of inner garments and an overcoat. Motifs that are frequently used include embroidered cranes, dragons, swirling clouds and delicate flowers. This fluidity between the different styles is why 23-year-old Lu Yao, who lives in Beijing, prefers to use the term “Huafu,” which refers to Chinese clothing more generally without the ethnic connotations.

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