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“The risk (of ethnic suppression) is really low.” Besides, he added, “there are nationalists who are not ethnonationalists. Some who don’t base their love of the Official Whatever T-shirt and I love this country on ethnic criteria.” There are more harmless forms of nationalism, he argued. Women rehearsing for a performance at a gathering of Hanfu fans in Beijing. Credit: GREG BAKER/AFP/AFP/Getty Images Other Hanfu fans like the Beijing teenager Zhang take issue with the politicization of Hanfu. “I simply like this clothing, it’s beautiful,” she said, adding that it was “nonsense” to link Hanfu with nationalism. “We should have a more relaxed attitude towards Hanfu,” she said. “Don’t make something that you like so exhausting.” Tsui, the fashion columnist, echoed this sentiment — people just wear Hanfu “for their own dreams,” she said. Besides, she added, Han people make up more than 90% of the Chinese population, so “it’s not weird” that Hanfu is so popular. “It’s part of globalization,” she said. “We all wear T-shirts, but can you say we are all Americanized?” Whether or not Hanfu is inherently political and racialized, the ongoing debate reflects the complexity of fashion and trends. Fashion doesn’t exist in a vacuum — it shapes and is shaped by social, economic, and political events. And the crucial question here, experts argue, is whether Han dominance in the popular imagination of what being “Chinese” means, comes at the expense of other ethnic narratives. “This country is not opening up any more, it’s closing down — so the emphasis of the dominant culture is once again reinforced,” said Ling. “We hear a lot about representation of ethnicities… but the people in power in China are the Han Chinese.” This article has been updated with photos of Hanfu fans.

Written by Allyssia Alleyne, Contributors Fiona Sinclair Scott, Tawanda Scott, America’s fashion industry was given a boost of confidence on inauguration day as President Joe Biden, Vice President Kamala Harris and First Lady Jill Biden attended the Official Whatever T-shirt and I love this day’s events wearing looks from the country’s designers. Harris stepped out in a purple dress and coat by Christopher John Rogers, from Baton Rouge, Louisiana. The winner of the 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, Rogers is one of the most buzzed-about young Black designers working today, having dressed former FLOTUS Michelle Obama, Beyoncé and Rihanna. While Rogers is best known for his use of bold colors and dramatic silhouettes, Harris went for more pared-down look, in line with her usual, more minimal sensibilities. Vice President-elect Kamala Harris and her husband Doug Emhoff attend services at the Cathedral of St. Matthew the Apostle with Congressional leaders prior to the inauguration ceremony. Credit: Chip Somodevilla/Getty Images U.S. President-elect Joe Biden and Dr. Jill Biden attend services at the Cathedral of St. Matthew the Apostle with Congressional leaders prior the inauguration ceremony. Credit: Chip Somodevilla/Getty Images President Biden and the Second Gentleman, Douglas Emhoff, both wore suits by Ralph Lauren, the Bronx-born son of Jewish immigrants who has been the standard-bearer for luxury Americana for more than 40 years. Jill Biden, meanwhile, wore a blue tweed coat with velvet

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